Day Five
Our final excursion of the trip was my ladyfriend’s idea: horseback riding. The horsey ride recommended to us was a journey to a cenote (pronounced seh-noh-tay), which is a cave filled with water. It wasn’t one of the more popular excursions, not because of anything negative, but because it’s not an overpriced theme park with an advertising budget and pamphlets. A three-row van picked us up along with two other couples - one young Canadian couple, one old Spanish couple - and we were introduced to our horses. We’d been warned about Mexican horses: they’re small. If you look at the photos of our trip, you’ll see it appears I’m riding a pony. They weren’t that small, but you could probably fit two of ‘em inside a Clydesdale. Picture that for a moment, in your mind’s eye. Okay, let’s continue.
My horse was named Pancho, and my ladyfriend’s horse was Camille. Pancho was a worthy steed, full of energy and crafty enough to eat leaves while he walked. The young man in front of me had a horse that would be considered a stumblebum. About 45 minutes into the jungle, on a rocky path, and we arrived at the cenote. Here our guide, Miguel, showed us the chicle tree. It is what you might guess, a tree from which the sap was once used in chewing gum like Chiclets. A small bag of mini-churros and a can of pop later and we were introduced to the cenote.

Some cenotes are rainwater, some are rivers. Ours was the latter, part of what’s estimated to be a 160km underground river, one of the longest in the world. Crystal was the first to step foot in the dark water, when the tour guide turned on some lights they’d strung through the length of the cave. This exposed a large pool of crystal-clear water surrounded by stalactites, with nooks and crannies too small for people to swim past. At the far end was a smaller hole reaching to the surface, through which plant roots draped down like strands of cooked spaghetti. Like everything else we’d seen on our trips outside the resort, it was beautiful. We spent about an hour there before getting back on our mules and returning to the corral (”corral” in this case consisting of a bunch of trees, not a fenced-in area).
We (the young couples) really had to wonder why the older Spanish folks went on this excursion. The man chain smoked in almost comical amounts - on the horse, in the cenote, and was upset he couldn’t light up in the van. Top it off with him nearly choking from an inability to breathe while swimming, and a wife who spent her time fighting with him, and it made us all think what the hell was wrong with them. Well, what can you do. We had fun, so screw ‘em.
This night was our second a la carte meal, and unfortunately it was the worst one. The menu was supposedly Mexican, but really all they’d done was take the buffet food and add some different sauce or seasoning and passed it off as “gourmet”. Oh well. You can’t win ‘em all.
Day Six
The final actual day of vacationing, and we made the decision to spend it on the beach. After a couple hours of lazing around in the shade, and downing a few pina coladas, we headed up the shoreline past our resort’s boundaries. Here we found some lovely bungalows with patios and hammocks right on the beach - closer to the water than any of our resort’s villas. Something to investigate for when we return and decide not to do the all-inclusive stay. A little further and we found a limestone outcropping, the tip of which featured a thatched hut with … nothing else. It looked like something existed there at some point, but we figured it must have been destroyed in hurricanes a few years earlier. Not far from that we saw a half-finished resort-ish building. At first glance it looked under construction, but considering the surroundings were overgrown with plants and the “beach” was actually “sharp limestone”, I have to guess that it was abandoned.

After that it was back to the resort for some ice cream, more pina coladas, and our final “fancy” dinner. Thankfully the quality was far above the previous one: the menu was much more sophisticated (but still not Mexican) and one of the servers prepared special coffees using fire. It’s a good way to impress your clientele by setting fire to alcohol and splashing it around. Anyway, the meals were rack of lamb for myself and rabbit stew for my wife. Both were very delicious, and the rabbit came with a warning to Crystal of “are you sure you want rabbit? You know it’s Bugs Bunny?” I suppose some girls get squeamish eating something kept as a pet. Not my girl!
With the night complete it was time to pack our bags for tomorrow’s departure.
Day Seven
Time to leave. Amid some great confusion with bags and check-out slips, we got on the bus at 9am and it took us through part of the city of Playa Del Carmen. The area we drove through would probably be considered “slums”, if you took away the junkies, needles, mould, and poop in the alleys. I’ll comment more on this tomorrow.
Finally, a two-hour wait in the Cancun airport, included a stop at the Duty-Free store. It’s ridiculous how cheap booze is when it’s not regulated by governments and taxed all to hell. I picked up a litre of Kahula and my lady picked up a litre of rum. Total price? $25. Canadian. Seriously, why do we accept such high booze prices in this country? Sigh.
The flight home was a mixed bag. We got two seats (one window seat) to ourselves, but were seated even closer to screaming babies. Thankfully it was daytime during our flight, unlike the one a week previous, which meant a clear view of cities and mountains. The largest city we flew over was Dallas, Texas, which is enormous. It’s also interesting - and kind of sickening - to see suburbs from overhead.
We touched down around 6pm, and an hour of lines and customs later, we’re met by my mother-in-law who takes us home for some sleep before returning to work the next day.
And that’s our trip! I’ll wrap it all up soon with opinions and deep thinking on all manner of things.